Corfu
Multi-Gen family trip – For this trip we had 8 people including my parents, husband and I and 4 children aged 10, 7 almost 5 and 9 months.
Day 1 – travel day
We flew with Ryaniar – lowcost airline, leaving at 4:00 in the afternoon. The flight from London is about 3 hours 15 minutes, but because you lost 2 hours, it was dark by the time we landed.
My experience of going through customs in the EU this year is that it can take quite a long time due to the new EES (Entry/Exit System). Anyone who is not an EU resident/citizen must register their biometric data which includes a facial image and fingerprints. We got lucky that because we were travelling with a baby they were nice enough to fast-track our family to the front of the line. Had they not done this, it would have taken over an hour at least.
We went to the Enterprise counter right outside customs and it was a very quick process to pick up our 2 rental cars. The car pick-up was just outside the airport which was really convenient. By this point it was 10 PM local time so we drove to a nearby restaurant to pick up some pizza before the drive to our rental villa.
This is my second time going to a Greek island, and something that surprised my was that not all of the houses have addresses. The locals all seem to know each other and know a house by naming it or by the name of the owner. Because of this it was not easy to put the destination in my phone’s GPS, and I instead put in coordinates that the rental company gave me.
Now, I knew it could be somewhat challenging driving to the North side of the island in the dark during our first time in Corfu, but I didn’t anticipate not being able to find our villa. It started off just fine leaving the Corfu Town area, with plenty of light and regular looking streets, but as we got into the countryside it was very dark with no street lights whatsoever and very narrow roads in varying condition. Some of them fully paved, some not very well kept, some dirt roads. We drove through several small towns and then started to go up a steep mountain.
Then came the start of our difficulty. The phone directed us to turn down a steep downhill dirt road that had a cliff edge on one side and a couple of cars parked on the other side. Something definitely seems off, and then the road dead-ended into a stair-case that you obviously could not drive up. We had to leave this road driving in reverse and being very careful not to drive off the cliff on our left or hit the cars on our right. Then we didn’t quite know how to proceed. There was no phone signal here in order to find a new route, so in the end we decided to start driving until there was reception and then get as close to Roda as possible. We were only 15 minutes away at this point.
When we finally got to Roda it was after midnight, but we still didn’t have an address for our villa. We drove out to a road right on the beach, knowing that our villa was supposed to be a 3 minute walk from the beach. Asif saw a man who he asked for help, who also just happened to be half English so communication was easy. This kind man knew where our villa was and offered to let us follow him in his car.
Once we found our villa, we sighed with relief, got all the kids inside and unpacked our bags. The villa was very impressive. 5 bedrooms, 4.5 bathrooms, a very big kitchen. The host kindly left us some bottles of water, fruit and bread to get us started. The villa was perfect for the size of our group. The view when we woke up in the morning from the balcony was absolutely stunning. You could see the Ionian Sea with the backdrop of huge mountains across the water in Albania. We were extremely lucky with weather. The entire time we were there it was highs of 67 and perfectly blue skies. Apparently Corfu has had its wettest winter on record which caused a lot of damage, and delayed a lot of the work to get things ready for the tourist season.
We like to travel in the shoulder season where possible, either in April/May or October to avoid the crowds. Of course the cons are that it is not the warmest weather, and not everything is open. But it suits us quite well, accommodation is readily available and cheaper, and personally I don’t mind a cold plunge!
Things of note for visiting Corfu:
You are not supposed to flush toilet paper, all bathrooms have a trashcan for this. There is a tourist tax of 15 Euros per accommodation per night. The roads can be extremely narrow and not in the best condition. We found that the beaches and activities can be a but physically demanding. Lots of walking, not the easiest terrain for hikes, and some cliff edges that had me on edge with small children in tow.
Day 2: Sidari
We had a slow morning to recover from the travel, while the men went out at got groceries for breakfast. We decided to go visit the coastal town of Sidari, which was a 20 minute drive from Roda. We also decided after our first night that we would make sure to be home every day by sunset so that we would not have to drive through the mountains in the dark again.
Sidari had more going on with the famous rock formation called the Canal D’amour. It was easy to find free parking right near the beach. We walked along to the rock formations and did a short hike up the trails to see the views. The sea has crystal clear water, you are surrounded by olive and fig trees, beautiful flowers and succulents. Legend has it if you swim though the Canal d’Amour with your significant other, you will stay together forever. The water was far to cold for this, so I suppose we will never know!
After exploring the rocks we went to a local restaurant and got some amazing Greek food. Greek salad, fried feta cheese with sesame and honey, simple pastas for the kids, a nice slow dining experience taking in the atmosphere.
If you like cats, Corfu is full of them, some friendly and others completely feral, but cute non-the-less.
After lunch we headed back to the beach for a walk, dipping our toes in, playing with the mini-volleyball we brought and taking some fun photos. We made the drive back home when we met our host Eunicia who owns the house and lives down-stairs in a purpose made apartment. She was very kind and welcoming and helped us choose a restaurant that was less than 5 minutes away in the next town called Acharavi. She even called ahead to let them know we were coming so that they could reserve us some Sea Bream which is a signature dish in Corfu. It is so fresh that they almost always run out. Restaurant Odysseus was very nice. The sea bream was outstanding and I also loved their stuffed peppers. We had promised the kids gelato, so after dinner we walked to a desert place and it did not disappoint.
Day 3 – Corfu Old Town
We drove south to Corfu town also know by the locals as Kerkyra. I was delighted to find free parking near the New Fortress on the water-edge. It was definitely a busy area with tour-buses arriving, pedestrians and many cars, but after driving around for only 5-10 minutes a parking space became available. We went for a wander around the town which has a strong Venetian influence and feels like you are in an Italian city. There is plenty of hustle and bustle, souvenir shops and wonder smells of food and treats. We didn’t have much of a plan other than to wander around. Our first stop was a local playground for the kids to enjoy. We were not short of lunch options, but we chose a place called Pane e Souvlaki which had freshly made falafel and hummus as well as grilled meat on sticks (souvlaki). After lunch we walked to the “New” fortress thinking that it was the Old fortress as it is much bigger and more visible from inside the town. The New Fortress was built by the Venetians in the 16th century. It was closed to visitors, so we instead made our way to the Old Fortress. The old fortress dates back as early as the 6th century. The entry price was 10 euros for adult which in my opinion was not worth it, but possibly because a lot of the exhibitions were closed in preparation for Orthodox Easter which was coming up in a couple of days. We climbed to the top which was steep at times and required using the baby sling as the stroller was not suitable. The views were pretty amazing though. I just feel like the cost was high compared to other European cities where such a view does not cost anything but the energy of climbing up.
After this, we had just enough time to stop for a dessert before getting on the road back to Roda (45 minute drive) to avoid driving in the dark. We went to a place called Papagiorgis which we found out later is the #1 rated ice cream place in Corfu town on Trip Advisor. We saw it while we were walking earlier, and that they were making the ice cream fresh so we knew it would be good. They had two shops next door to one another. The first shop is where they were making the ice cream as well as baked souffle and cookies, and the other shop was serving the ice cream. You use a kiosk to put in your order. We saw some locals eating souffle and ice cream (think chocolate molten lava cake) and asked them about it. They said it is by far the best dessert in all of Corfu island. We were not disappointed by this choice!
Upon return to Roda we went to look for a restaurant, but the only place open that had food was the place we went the night before. A lot of the local restaurants do not open until after Orthodox Easter and the start of the tourist season. We ordered different dishes than the previous night and it was still a good experience.
Day 4 – Paleokastritsa Beach
In my research I saw that the beaches of Paleokastritsa were unmissable. It took the group a bit of time to get going in the morning, so we got in our cars a little later than we hoped. It was a 45 minute drive to the western side of the island, and the “quickest” route available took us on some extremely narrow roads through farm-land. It was a beautiful drive though, we saw olive trees and horses and various flora and fauna of the island. We got parked up at about 2:00 and by that point we needed a lunch stop. There wasn’t a lot of choice of open restaurants and the one we chose was very big and the prices reflected a more touristy area, but the food was still good. The main attraction of going to this beach was to see the natural caves along the coastline by boat that you can’t get to otherwise. This was a highlight of our trip. There are two options, you can either rent a boat and drive it yourself (cost 80 euros for one hour or 120 for 2 hours) or you could have a guided tour with commentary. We opted for the guided tour. All of the different caves, the sparkling turquoise crystal clear water was truly breathtaking. We even saw some mountain goats hanging out on the cliffs. Our skipper named Spiros was fun and entertaining. There were some very remote beaches you could only get to by boat, or motorbike as the roads are so narrow you would struggle to get a car down them. After the boat trip we had a walk on the beach which was breathtaking, but it was mostly pebbly, so not a very nice beach to walk bare-foot. We had a climb on some of the rocks before driving back to our villa.
Day 5 – Old Perithia and Kassiopi
For our last day we deicided to do something unique and go see the ruin of the village of Old Perithia locaed in mount Pantokrator. It was a 25 minute drive from our villa. The drive was scenic with plenty of switchbacks to get to the top. There is a dusty rocky parking area near the town.
(add a little about the history of the village)
We did a hike around the Old Village with remnants of the old town, shells of houses and old school building with trees an foliage growing inside, caved-in roofs and even bee-keeping hives inside abandoned houses. We sampled the local honey (and ended up buying some of course).
Lunch with a view, definitely one of my favorites.
After lunch we decided to check out another coastal town in the north of Corfu called Kassiopi. Kassiopi is a picturesque fishing village with more crystal clear waters and it has a Byzantine castle ruin.
The kids were tired from doing plenty of walking, so we headed back to our villa to recharge before dinner. For me, it wouldn’t be a good trip without exploring the area with a run, so while the kids took a break I went out to see the local area in Roda. The “beach” was about 3 minutes from our villa, but the immediate area has a paved path along the coast with a rocky beach and the Ionian Sea is right there. Not a great beach for relaxing, but particularly good for me as a runner because I don’t enjoy running on sand, but loved that I had and ocean view the entire time and was so close I could feel the ocean spray. I went as far as I could east, came back and then decided to see what was happening in the other direction. Eventually the rockiness led to a more sandy beach with some local businesses around for padel-boating and other water sports. I stopped for a quick photo at the big RODA sign that is right on the water and then made my way back to the villa as the sun started to set.
We drove to Sidari to have dinner at a local Pizzeria called the Venice. It is a family owned business and we were pleasantly surprised to be greeted warmly by a lady with an English accent. It turns out they are a family who are half English/half Greek, they had a massive wood pizza oven and the food was excellent. The family was so nice it felt like we were having dinner with old friends. It was a great last night for our trip.
Day 6
Packing up and back to airport.
It took us some time to get ourselves together and drive back to the airport. The only thing on my list that we did not do was go to the Vlacherna Monastery causeway in Kanoni to see the planes fly right over you. If we had more time we would have driven there, watched the planes, gone to see the monastery on the man-made peninsula and grabbed a quick lunch. Instead we went straight to the airport and returned our cars to Enerprise which was a breeze. The airport is small, so it was quite quick and easy to get through which was helpful because we only arrived 2 hours before our flight. We picked up sandwiches to eat on the plane.
Overall thoughts on Corfu:
Cofu is a beautiful island and there were many places we did not get to on this trip. If I were doing the trip again, I would not attempt to drive the first night in the dark, and I probably would not have stayed in Roda as there just wasn’t enough going on there. It may be better to go in May/Early June or September when more things are open, but its not peak tourist season.
Villa Review:
We had a lovely stay at Utopia Villa in Roda, Corfu. It was perfect for our group of 8 (4 adults, 3 children and 1 baby) with 2 rooms with 2 single beds each, a spacious master bedroom and then in the loft there was a double bed as well as another bedroom with a double bed. With 4 full bathrooms and one toilet on the ground floor, this also was convenient. The kitchen was a spacious with plenty of seating for dining in the kitchen as well as in the living room or on the balcony. You wake up to the most stunning view of the mountains and sea. There is ample parking and the property is gated. There is even a bbq area within the grounds. A very short drive away to Acharavi where there is a supermarket, restaurants, cafes and shops. There are also some restaurants and businesses in Roda, but they were not open yet for the tourist season. The private pool was almost finished and will be a perfect addition for future guests.
Our host Euncia was very friendly and welcoming. She helped us choose a restaurant and even called ahead to make sure they had the Sea Bream reserved for us as the fish is so fresh that they often run out. She was available for anything we needed and gave us a walkthrough of how everything works in the house (hot water etc).
One thing to note is that you have to through the mountains to get to the north of the island from Corfu airport, so I suggest you try to do this in daylight for the first time. We recommend staying at Utopia Villa and would happily stay there again!
Multi‑Generational Family Trip to Corfu, Greece
Corfu has been on my radar for a while, but this trip was extra special: a multi‑generational adventure with eight of us—my parents, my husband and me, and our four kids (10, 7, almost 5, and 9 months). We based ourselves in the north of the island and explored at a relaxed pace, balancing beautiful views, kid‑friendly stops, and a few unexpected challenges along the way.
If you’re thinking about Corfu with kids, grandparents, or both, here’s how our week unfolded and what I’d do differently next time.
Day 1 – Travel Day & A Nighttime Arrival Adventure
We flew Ryanair from London in the late afternoon. The flight is about 3 hours 15 minutes, but you lose two hours, so it was already dark when we landed.
Arrival & the new EU border system
This year, entering the EU has taken longer because of the new EES (Entry/Exit System). Non‑EU citizens and residents now need to register biometric data (facial image and fingerprints). Lines can be long. We were very lucky: because we were traveling with a baby, we were fast‑tracked to the front. Without that, it easily would have been over an hour.
Car rental & late‑night logistics
We picked up two rental cars from Enterprise right outside customs. The process was quick, and the cars were parked just outside the airport—very convenient with tired kids and grandparents in tow. By the time we left the airport it was around 10 p.m. local time, so we grabbed takeaway pizza from a nearby restaurant before starting the drive to our villa in the north.
When your villa doesn’t have an address
This was my second time on a Greek island, and I’d forgotten one key detail: not every house has a clear address. Locals know homes by name or by the owner, and GPS doesn’t always cooperate. Our rental company gave us coordinates instead of an address, which should have helped—but in the dark, on unfamiliar roads, it was still tricky.
Leaving Corfu Town felt normal enough: streetlights, paved roads, and clear signage. But as we headed into the countryside, the roads became:
We passed through several small towns and then started climbing a steep mountain. That’s when things got interesting.
The wrong turn
Our phone directed us down a steep, downhill dirt road with:
We obviously couldn’t drive up a staircase. We had to reverse back up the road, carefully avoiding both the cliff and the parked cars. With no phone signal to reroute, we decided to keep driving until we had reception again and then aim for Roda, the nearest town to our villa. We were only about 15 minutes away at that point, but it felt much longer.
Saved by a local in Roda
By the time we reached Roda it was after midnight, and we still didn’t have a proper address. We drove to a road along the beach, knowing our villa was supposed to be a three‑minute walk from the water. My husband spotted a man nearby and asked for help. By pure luck, he was half English, half Greek, so communication was easy. He knew exactly where our villa was and offered to let us follow him in his car.
I cannot overstate the relief of finally pulling up to the right house after that drive.
Our villa in Roda
The villa itself was wonderful and perfect for a group of eight:
Our host had left water, fruit, and bread for us, which was such a thoughtful touch after a long travel day. When we woke up the next morning and stepped onto the balcony, the view took our breath away: the Ionian Sea in front of us and the mountains of Albania rising across the water.
We were also incredibly lucky with the weather: blue skies every day and highs around 67°F (about 19°C). Corfu had just had its wettest winter on record, which caused damage and delayed some pre‑season work, but during our stay it felt like spring had fully arrived.
Why we like shoulder season
We usually travel in the shoulder season—April/May or October—because:
The trade‑offs are:
For us, that balance works well, especially with kids and grandparents who don’t love intense heat or packed beaches.
Things to Know Before Visiting Corfu (Especially with Family)
A few practical notes that stood out:
Day 2 – Sidari & Canal d’Amour
We had a slow morning to recover from the travel day while the men went out to get groceries for breakfast. One decision we made after our first night: we would always be back at the villa by sunset to avoid driving the mountain roads in the dark again.
Sidari & Canal d’Amour
Sidari is a coastal town about a 20‑minute drive from Roda. It has more going on than Roda and is home to the famous rock formation Canal d’Amour.
We did a short hike up the paths to take in the views: crystal‑clear water, layered rock formations, olive and fig trees, flowers, and succulents. Legend says that if you swim through the Canal d’Amour with your significant other, you’ll stay together forever. The water was far too cold for us to test that theory, so I guess we’ll never know!
Lunch in Sidari
After exploring the rocks, we went to a local restaurant for lunch and had:
It was a slow, relaxed meal—exactly what we needed after the previous night.
Cats everywhere
If you like cats, Corfu is full of them. Some are friendly, others are completely feral, but they’re everywhere and the kids loved spotting them.
Evening back near Roda
After lunch we walked along the beach, dipped our toes in, played with a mini volleyball we’d brought, and took some fun photos before heading back to the villa.
That evening we met our host, Eunicia, who lives downstairs in a separate apartment. She was incredibly kind and helped us choose a nearby restaurant in the next town, Acharavi, called Odysseus. She even called ahead to reserve sea bream for us—a local specialty that often sells out.
We finished the evening with gelato at a nearby dessert place, which made the kids very happy.
Day 3 – Corfu Old Town (Kerkyra)
On Day 3 we drove south to Corfu Town, known locally as Kerkyra. It has a strong Venetian influence and feels more like an Italian city than a typical Greek island town.
Parking & first impressions
We found free parking near the New Fortress along the water. It’s a busy area with tour buses, pedestrians, and lots of cars, but after about 5–10 minutes of circling, a spot opened up.
We didn’t have a strict plan—just to wander, soak up the atmosphere, and let the kids have some fun.
Lunch at Pane e Souvlaki
For lunch we chose Pane e Souvlaki, which had:
It was quick, tasty, and central—great for a family group.
New Fortress vs Old Fortress
We first walked to the New Fortress, assuming it was the Old Fortress because it’s larger and more visible from town. The New Fortress was built by the Venetians in the 16th century, but it was closed to visitors that day.
So we made our way to the Old Fortress, which dates back as early as the 6th century.
The views were beautiful, but for us, the entry price felt high compared to other European cities where similar viewpoints are free. I suspect it might feel more worthwhile when everything is open.
The best dessert in Corfu Town
Before heading back to Roda (about a 45‑minute drive), we stopped for dessert at Papagiorgis, which we later learned is the #1 rated ice cream place in Corfu Town on TripAdvisor.
They have two neighboring shops:
You order via a kiosk. We saw locals eating chocolate soufflé with ice cream (think molten lava cake with gelato) and asked about it. They told us it was the best dessert on the island. We took their advice and were not disappointed.
Back in Roda that evening, many restaurants were still closed for the off‑season, so we ended up back at the same restaurant as the night before and tried different dishes. Still a good experience.
Day 4 – Paleokastritsa Beach & Cave Boat Tour
Paleokastritsa kept coming up in my research as a “must‑see” area, especially for its beaches and caves, so we dedicated a day to it.
The drive
It’s about a 45‑minute drive from our villa on the north coast to Paleokastritsa on the west side of the island. The “quickest” route took us along very narrow roads through farmland. It was beautiful—olive trees, horses, and lush greenery—but definitely required confident driving.
Lunch & first impressions
We arrived around 2 p.m. and needed lunch before anything else. Options were limited, and the restaurant we chose was large and clearly geared toward tourists, with prices to match. The food was still good, just not the most charming spot of the trip.
Boat trip to the caves – a highlight
The main reason we came to Paleokastritsa was to see the natural caves along the coastline, which you can only reach by boat.
You have two main options:
We chose the guided tour, which turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip.
We also saw remote beaches that are only accessible by boat or motorbike because the roads are too narrow for cars.
After the boat trip, we walked along the beach. It was breathtaking but mostly pebbly, so not ideal for barefoot strolling. The kids enjoyed climbing on the rocks before we headed back to the villa.
Day 5 – Old Perithia, Kassiopi & a Sunset Run in Roda
For our last full day, we wanted to do something a bit different and explore the island’s history and quieter corners.
Old Perithia – a ghost village in the mountains
Old Perithia is an abandoned village on the slopes of Mount Pantokrator, about a 25‑minute drive from our villa. The drive is scenic, with plenty of switchbacks and mountain views. There’s a dusty, rocky parking area near the village.
Old Perithia is one of Corfu’s oldest villages, dating back centuries. It was once a thriving mountain community, partly built inland to avoid pirate attacks along the coast. Over time, as life shifted back toward the sea and tourism grew, the village was gradually abandoned. Today, it’s a mix of:
We did a gentle hike around the village, exploring the ruins and soaking up the atmosphere. We sampled local honey (and of course ended up buying some to take home). Lunch here, with a view over the mountains and valleys, was one of my favorite meals of the trip.
Kassiopi – coastal charm & castle ruins
After lunch we drove to Kassiopi, another coastal town in the north. It’s a picturesque fishing village with:
By this point the kids were tired from all the walking, so we didn’t explore as deeply as we might have on an adults‑only trip. Still, it was a lovely place to wander for a short while.
A solo run along the Roda coastline
Back at the villa, the kids and grandparents rested while I went out for a run—my favorite way to get a feel for a place.
Our villa was about a three‑minute walk from the “beach,” which in this area is more of a rocky shoreline with a paved path along the coast. For me, it was perfect:
Running east, I followed the path as far as I could, then turned back and explored the other direction. Eventually the rocky stretch gave way to a more traditional sandy beach with small local businesses offering pedal boats and water sports. I stopped for a photo at the big RODA sign right on the water and headed back as the sun began to set.
Final dinner in Sidari
For our last night, we drove back to Sidari for dinner at a family‑run pizzeria called The Venice. We were warmly greeted by a woman with an English accent; it turns out the family is half English, half Greek.
It was the perfect way to end our trip.
Day 6 – Departure & One Thing We Missed
Our final morning was all about packing up and driving back to the airport. There was one thing on my list we didn’t manage to do: visiting the Vlacherna Monastery and the causeway in Kanoni to watch planes fly directly overhead as they land.
If we’d had more time, my ideal last day would have been:
Instead, we went straight to the airport. Returning the cars to Enterprise was easy, and the airport itself is small and manageable. We arrived about two hours before our flight, picked up sandwiches for the plane, and headed home.
Overall Thoughts on Corfu (and What I’d Do Differently)
Corfu is a beautiful island, and we only scratched the surface. For a multi‑generational trip, it offered a nice mix of:
If I were planning this trip again, I would: