Courmayeur with Kids: Our Family Trip to the Italian Alps

August 26 – September 1, 2026 | Traveling with kids ages 10, 8, 5, and 14 months

Visiting the Alps was on my travel wish list for a long time. Switzerland was the original dream, but I wanted to find a way to make it work without breaking the bank. As it turns out, the Italian Alps offered a beautiful alternative for a fraction of the cost.

This trip was a last-minute getaway. We had some time off but couldn’t decide where to go. London had continuous heatwave giving us the best Summer weather I’ve experienced, and for once, we weren’t looking to escape the cloudy skies and rain! We didn’t fancy a European city break in the heat or an overcrowded, overpriced beach resort during peak season.

So I turned to Skyscanner to look for the cheapest available flights. Northern Italy kept coming up as an affordable option, with flights from London taking only about two hours.

Before long, we had booked our flights to Turin and planned a few days in Courmayeur, a mountain town at the foot of Mont Blanc.

There was just one catch: getting there by public transportation with four children, including a 14-month-old, was going to be an adventure in itself.

Getting from Turin to Courmayeur

We arrived in Turin at 10:30 p.m. on Wednesday evening, having lost an hour to the time difference. I booked a reasonably priced hotel a few miles from the airport so that we could get our heads down as soon as possible. There was a bus  from the airport which dropped us right outside B&B Borgero Torinese Hotel, which made the late arrival much easier.

The next morning, we set off for Courmayeur. My research had suggested that the journey was manageable by train and bus, but the reality was rather different!

We missed our first bus by just a few minutes, then took a wrong turn at the train station and missed our next connection. The replacement bus took a longer route, and when we finally reached Aosta, our last bus to Courmayeur was running late.

Eight hours after leaving our hotel, we finally arrived in Courmayeur. From there, we still had a 20-minute walk to our apartment in Dolonne.

Would I recommend this journey with four kids? Honestly, not if you can avoid it.

We chose to stay in Dolonne because it was considerably cheaper than staying in Courmayeur itself. The two are just across a bridge from one another, so the walk into town wasn’t too bad. Dolonne is much quieter, with just a couple of restaurants and no shops, but it suited us well for our four-night stay.

After the long journey, we settled into the apartment and headed across the street to Fuoripista for pizza. It was a very welcome end to a very long day!

Exploring Dolonne and Courmayeur

Our first full day in the Alps started with rain and thunderstorms, so we took things slowly. The apartment was warmer than we expected, and we had packed jackets and coats for much cooler mountain temperatures. In reality, the weather was surprisingly warm for most of our stay.

The apartment itself was very mountainy (is that a word?), with big wooden shutters and creaky floors. It reminded me of the condo my parents used to own in Blowing Rock, North Carolina. It was a little dated, but it had everything we needed, including a fully equipped kitchen and a washing machine.

By mid-afternoon, the rain had mostly cleared, so we headed out to explore Dolonne.

One of the best things about staying here was how close we were to the Dolonne cable car. It was just a five-minute walk from our apartment, making it easy to head up into the mountains without needing a car.

We took the cable car up to Plan Checrouit and went for a hike before turning back after almost an hour. The trail was labeled easy, but hiking uphill with three children and a toddler in a carrier made it feel more like a moderate hike. Some sections were also tricky on the way back down.

Still, the views of Mont Blanc were breathtaking. At 4,807.3 meters (15,772 feet), Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Western Europe, and we were already enjoying incredible views from around 2,000 meters above sea level.

After our hike, we headed into Courmayeur for dinner and groceries. The town has plenty of restaurants and outdoor shops, and it has a lively atmosphere without feeling overly formal. Most restaurants don’t open for dinner until 7 p.m., so it’s worth planning around Italian dining hours, especially when traveling with young children.

We ate at Ristorante Du Parc, which had a great selection of pasta and pizza. The staff were friendly, and we enjoyed chatting with them about life in the area. They explained that Courmayeur is primarily a destination for hikers in summer and skiers in winter, with the main tourist season falling during ski season.

It was a lovely introduction to the area, and we were already looking forward to our next day of hiking.

Hiking Val Veny with Kids

Saturday was our big hiking day, and thankfully the weather was beautiful.

After a relaxed morning at the apartment, I headed out for a five-mile run to explore the area and find the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car station. Running in the mountains is challenging, but it brought back memories of living in Asheville, North Carolina, when I ran cross-country at university.

In the afternoon, we walked into Courmayeur and caught a bus to Val Veny. One of the best surprises was that the local buses were free during the summer!

We got off at La Visaille, the last stop, and started our hike from there.

The trail follows the river uphill through the valley, and much of it is paved, making it a good option for families. It took us about an hour and 15 minutes to reach the Cabane du Combal Refuge, where hikers can stop for a drink or something to eat. The refuge is also one of the places where hikers stay while completing the famous Tour du Mont Blanc.

We brought plenty of water and snacks, so we stopped on a bench to recharge before deciding whether to continue.

It was noticeably windier and colder at the top, so I was glad we brought extra layers for the kids.

We read that Lake Miage was only another 10 minutes away, and the signs described the trail as easy. However, the route beyond the refuge became much steeper and more technical than we expected.

We decided to continue, but looking back, I wouldn’t recommend that section for younger children or anyone who isn’t confident with their balance on uneven mountain trails. I was particularly nervous on the way back down.

We made it to the top for a quick photo before heading back, conscious that we needed to catch the last bus back to Courmayeur at 7:40 p.m. We certainly didn’t want to be stuck in the mountains after dark!

Despite the more challenging final section, Val Veny was one of the highlights of our trip. The scenery was spectacular, and the main trail was very manageable for our family.

My tip: If you’re hiking Val Veny with children, the walk to the Combal Refuge is a great goal in itself. You don’t need to continue to Lake Miage to enjoy the beautiful scenery.

We returned to Courmayeur hungry and tired, and went back to Ristorante Du Parc for dinner. The food and service had been so good the night before that we decided to try some different dishes, including swordfish, gnocchi, and risotto.

Skyway Monte Bianco: The Kids’ Favorite Day

Sunday turned out to be our favorite day of the trip, especially for the kids.

We started a little earlier, picked up a few groceries in Courmayeur, and caught the bus to Skyway Monte Bianco.

This impressive cable car takes you up the mountain in two stages. The first stop is Pavillon, followed by a second cable car to Punta Helbronner, one of the highest accessible points in Italy.

We decided to visit Pavillon only, as the higher station was not recommended for children under three. With a 14-month-old in tow, we were happy to enjoy the mountain without pushing our luck with the altitude.

The cable car is expensive, but for us, it was worth every penny.

It’s much larger than the Dolonne cable car and can carry up to 80 people. We were lucky to have only a few other passengers during our ascent. The car rotates gradually as it travels, so you can enjoy the views from every angle as the valley drops away beneath you.

It was absolutely breathtaking.

What is there to do at Pavillon?

At the Pavillon station, you’ll find a building with a restaurant and exhibition space. Outside, there’s a beautiful area where you can spend several hours enjoying the mountain scenery.

Depending on the day, activities include:

• A climbing wall for children with a professional guide (only on Sundays)
• A botanical garden
• A small lake with a platform you can pull yourself across
• A climbing rock and slide built into the mountainside
• A food stand serving gelato and other refreshments
• Lounge chairs where you can sit and take in the views
• Hiking trails leading farther up the mountain toward Punta Helbronner
• Live music

We deliberately chose Sunday because the children’s climbing wall was available that day.

The kids had more fun here than anywhere else during our time in the Alps. It felt like one enormous outdoor playground, surrounded by some of the most beautiful mountain scenery I’ve ever seen.

We had perfect weather, around 75°F (24°C), with just a few clouds in the sky. We spent about three hours exploring before taking the cable car back down.

If you’re visiting Courmayeur with children, I’d highly recommend allowing plenty of time for Pavillon rather than treating it as a quick stop on the way to the higher station. There’s enough to do to keep kids entertained, and the views alone make the trip worthwhile.

An evening in Courmayeur

Back in town, we had time to explore some of the shops and stop at a small playground before dinner. There are plenty of outdoor clothing stores, and I could easily have spent some money!

As we walked past the outdoor theater, we came across a street performer singing Italian opera. He was fantastic and made for an unexpected highlight.

We then headed to Ristorante La Terrazza for dinner. It was a little more upscale than our previous meals, with a menu that blended different cuisines rather than focusing solely on traditional Italian dishes.

The food was interesting, although our experience was somewhat interrupted by a very unhappy toddler who was determined to escape his high chair and throw things around the restaurant. He had been napping on the go rather than having his usual nap at home, and it showed!

We rushed through dinner and made a quick stop at a crepe restaurant for one crepe with Nutella and vanilla gelato to share. Chef’s kiss.

It wasn’t our most relaxing restaurant experience, but that’s family travel for you!

Back to Turin: Excellent Food and Even Better Gelato

Monday was another travel day, and this time we were prepared for the journey back to Turin.

We left our apartment at 10 a.m. and caught the 10:30 bus from Courmayeur to Aosta. We’d hoped to find a more direct route back, but we ran into an unexpected complication: some buses require infants to have a car seat.

Without one, our only practical option was to travel via Ivrea and take the train to Turin.

At least we knew what to expect this time and managed our connections much better. The journey took six hours instead of eight!

We stayed in the family room at Turin Central Suite which was a perfect set-up for a family of six. There was a master bedroom with en-suite and a connecting room with 4 single beds as well as the pack-n-play we requested for our toddler. It was just a five-minute walk from Porta Susa station, which was very convenient. After spending most of the day on buses and trains, we were all ready to stretch our legs and let our toddler run around.

That evening, we headed out to find dinner and discovered one of my favorite things about Turin: the food.

We ate at Signorvino, where the food was excellent and reasonably priced. The kids tucked into their pasta and pizza while we ordered eggplant parmesan, a vegetable plate on pea hummus, fried calamari, zucchini flowers, shrimp, and focaccia.

For me, Turin was all about excellent food at moderate prices. It felt less touristy than some of the other Italian cities I’ve visited, with plenty of locals enjoying their evening meals.

Of course, no Italian evening would be complete without gelato.

On a local’s recommendation, we stopped at La Romana, and the gelato was so good that my husband declared he’d fly back to Turin just to have it again!

I ordered pistachio and a dark chocolate flavor with nuts, and both were delicious. Even better, a medium serving of three scoops cost around €4. You certainly don’t get prices like that in London!

After a long day of travel, we were more than ready for bed.

A Few Hours Exploring Turin

Our final morning was much more relaxed. We had a comfortable night’s sleep, thanks to good blackout curtains and air conditioning, and ate breakfast in our room before checking out.

Our flight wasn’t until 4 p.m., so the hotel kindly let us leave our bags while we explored the city.

We walked about 20 minutes into the center, passing through beautiful arcades and plenty of shops along the way. If we’d had more time, I would have loved to spend a few hours shopping.

Instead, we stopped for brunch at Avocuddle Café, a café specializing in avocado toast but also offering pancakes and other breakfast options.

After several days of simple breakfasts at our apartment, the kids were delighted to have pancakes covered in fruit and Nutella. We enjoyed freshly squeezed orange juice and great coffee before heading out for one last wander.

Getting to Turin Airport was easy. From Porta Susa, the train journey took around 30 minutes.

One thing that really impressed me was the airport’s dedicated baby room. It had a door you could close, a soft play area, a changing table, a sink, and a breastfeeding chair. It was wonderful to let out toddler run around safely for 90 minutes before our flight.

There was even an arcade area just outside the baby room for older children.

Honestly, I wish more airports had facilities like this!

The flight home was uneventful, and toddler slept for most of the journey after a big tantrum during takeoff. A fitting end to our family adventure.

Was the Italian Alps Worth It?

The honest answer is that there were moments when we questioned why we’d chosen this trip!

Traveling for eight hours with four children is exhausting, and six hours on the return journey wasn’t exactly a relaxing way to finish our stay. We also had a few less-than-ideal restaurant experiences thanks to an overtired toddler.

But Courmayeur itself? Absolutely beautiful.

The mountain scenery was some of the best I’ve ever experienced, the kids loved the cable cars and outdoor activities, and we found plenty to enjoy without spending every day on expensive excursions.

It was also a reminder that you don’t always have to visit the most expensive destination to experience somewhere incredible. The Italian Alps gave us the mountain adventure we’d been dreaming of without the cost of staying in Switzerland.

Would I do anything differently?

Definitely.

If I were planning this trip again, I’d rent a car and drive from Turin to Courmayeur. The journey is only around an hour and 45 minutes by car, which would have saved us hours of complicated connections.

The challenge is that we’re now a family of six, and finding a rental vehicle large enough for all of us in Europe can be difficult. We would likely have needed two cars, making the logistics more complicated.

I’d estimated the cost at around $215 per rental car, plus tolls and fuel. For two cars, the total would have been roughly $700. By comparison, our public transportation cost was $162.60.

That’s a substantial saving, but after experiencing those journeys with four children, I can understand why paying more for convenience might be worthwhile.

For future trips, I’d look for an airport closer to the mountains or somewhere with a much shorter transfer to our accommodation. I’d also check infant car-seat requirements for every bus route before committing to public transportation.

My biggest takeaway: When traveling with a large family, the cheapest route isn’t always the easiest, and it’s worth weighing up the savings against the time, effort, and stress involved.

I can’t wait to return to the Alps. Next time, I’ll be looking for a way to get straight to the mountains without quite so much traveling!